When Cay Garcia, a fifty-something from Cape Town, was offered a well-paid job working for a princess from Saudi Arabia's ruling dynasty, she jumped at the chance.
But
less than four months after she arrived in the Saudi capital Riyadh,
she was hustled on to a plane and thrown out of the country - all
because she stood up to her abusive employer.
Now
back in South Africa, she has written a book laying bare her
experiences at the hands of the Saudi royals - and sheds light on a side
of Riyadh life that is rarely seen by outsiders.
Poorly treated: Cay saw the princess' Filipino servants being cruelly treated and subjected to vicious beatings
In charge: King Abdullah is the current ruler of Saudi Arabia and ascended to the Saudi throne in 2005
'Life in Riyadh for a
woman is harsh,' she explains. 'A single woman cannot
even go for a coffee on her own - it's deemed immoral.
'You are allowed
to walk around a mall but walking around one's neighbourhood for
exercise is heavily frowned upon.'
Difficult
though living up to Saudi Arabia's strict moral code proved - a code
enforced by religious police known as the Mutawa - her difficulties were
nothing compared to what she would experience within the palace itself.
There,
as the head of a team of five staff members including two Malawians and
two Filipinos, she was forced to watch as the princess, who Cay has
decided not to identify, doled out harsh punishments that included
beatings and having their rooms turned upside down, in addition to
dealing with the capricious moods of the princess herself.
'In the beginning the princess seemed to be on
her best behaviour although the abuse escalated over time,' she remembers.
'It was difficult, at times, not to
retaliate when the princess, who was half my age, was screaming at me and telling me what
an imbecile I was because she didn't approve of the shoes I was wearing.'
Although
Cay herself was never physically harmed by the princess, the other
maids - the Filipinos in particular - regularly found themselves at the
sharp end of the royal's terrifying temper.
Worse
still, thanks to the iqama identity card system which means foreigners
cannot leave the country without permission from their employers, both
Filipinos remain trapped in Saudi Arabia more than two years after their
contracts ended.
'The
Filipinos aren't held in high regard
by Saudis in general,' admits Cay. 'I have the utmost respect for these
people - not
only for their work ethics and for being on call 24/7 without a single
day off but also for having the capacity to take the abuse meted out in
their
stride.'
Abusive: Princess Buniah al-Saud was arrested in Florida in 2001 and accused of beating her servant
Difficult: Life for women isn't always easy in Saudi who are forbidden to drive among other things
One
of the worst incidents witnessed by Cay involved the princess telling
one maid to fetch a bucket of ice, tip it over her head and stand
outside her room, dripping and cold, for the entire night.
'Apart
from
the stories the staff shared with me and the severe bruising I saw
following beatings from the princess, this was probably the worst thing I
witnessed,' adds Cay.
'The abuse
is very real and it happens behind closed doors. The public personas of the
royals compared to what they are like when no one is looking are worlds apart.'
As
for the exit visas, Cay says they are a part of life in Saudi Arabia
and all expats working there, including those from the UK, have to have
them.
'You
get issued a identity card called an iqama soon after your arrival that
is carried with you at all times,' she explains.
'Everything you do, from buying
laptops to your marital status and renting an apartment is documented on
this card. Even traffic offences for men.
Work place: Riyadh has several royal palaces but the biggest and most important belongs to King Abdullah
'No one "escapes" from Saudi Arabia as you can only leave
once your employer grants you an exit visa and hands your passport
back which gets taken away when you arrive.
'There
are thousands of expats working in Saudi and the iqama is a form of control.There'spoint being outraged by them - it's something you have to accept.'
One
thing Garcia couldn't accept, however, was the complete control
exercised by her boss over every aspect of her life - including being
told details of private conversations between her and her doctor.
Days
after telling her doctor of her unhappiness in Saudi Arabia, Cay was
confronted by her employer - furious at what she saw as a betrayal.
'It
was a lesson in not
trusting anyone in Saudi,' says Cay, who describes the incident as the
'beginning of the end' of her time in the princess' employ.
'I trusted that I would be protected by patient confidentiality but it doesn't seem to exist over there.'
Restrictive: Saudi women are not allowed to do anything without a male relative's consent
Eventually,
and after several more confrontations, Cay's contract was terminated by
mutual agreement and she was given an exit visa - a courtesy still yet
to be extended to the other domestic staff in the princess' employ.
Both
relieved and upset, she had less than 24 hours to pack her things and
say goodbye to the friends she had made among the expat community.
Harder
still was saying goodbye to the colony of stray cats she had
befriended, in particular because she had had no time to make
arrangements for them.
'I hated the total lack of empathy when it comes to
animals,' she adds. 'I am a passionate animal lover and found it really traumatising to see
the thousands of stray, starving cats that gather around the dustbins in
Riyadh.
'Cats are seen as pests in Saudi Arabia. A common practice is to round
up as many cats as possible and then release them in the desert where
they die horrible deaths.'
Yet
despite her experiences, she says she would return to the region - and
even Saudi Arabia itself, although not to the capital, Riyadh.
Striking: The soaring beauty of the Riyadh skyline conceals some very murky secrets
Memoir: Cay has written a book about her experiences called Behind Palace Walls
'I wouldn't go back to Riyadh but some of Saudi's coastal cities are much more relaxed,' she reveals.
'Riyadh is the most conservative city in the whole of the Middle East.
Only black abayas are permitted in Riyadh whereas in the smaller cities,
pastel colours are allowed. The Mutawa are also
much more active in Riyadh.'
And
what of the princess herself? Although Cay says she would never return
to work for her, she does have some kind words for her former employer.
'From
what the princess told me, there were many incidents, perceived or
real, where she was hurt in her life.
'The princess also suffers from depression and is bi-polar, neither of which help matters, but,
although it wasn't often seen, she has a nurturing side.
'She
loves children as well and I think that part of the reason for her
behaviour might be frustration at not being married and having babies of
her own.'
She adds: 'My
experience with the princess hasn't put me off the idea of working for a
royal, although if I did take another contract, I'd prefer them to be
older.
'I
do feel very privileged to have seen a
part of the world that is shut off to the rest of society and to have
experienced first hand how things are done within the royal House of
Saud.'
Even, it seems, if she didn't appreciate all of them.
Cay's
memoir, Behind Palace Walls: Life in the Service of a Saudi Princess,
is published by Tafelberg Publishers Ltd and costs £10.95
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